In the peaceful corner of Zeta, among the rows of young olive trees which gleam in the autumn sun, geese calmly pecking at the grass and the scent of freshly pressed oil, Balša Baletić, the owner of the estate has found his peace. His estate in Srpska village covers the area of around 70000 square metres, features more than 3.000 olive trees, Pieralisi oil mill and a small “ecosystem” of domestic animals which help maintaining natural balance.
When he was planting his first olive trees in Zeta, Balša Baletić set two clear goals: making a lasting green oasis and for the quality of oil to depend solely on his own hands and knowledge, and not on deadlines set by other people and on compromises.
- Oil production does not determine our existence – it is a complimentary story based on love. This is why we do not focus on quantity, but on quality - says Baletić for our magazine.
In February 2004, he set off to the United States, “more as an adventure than for any other reason”. The first leg was Los Angeles, to visit his relatives there; having lived there on his own for several months – he turned to Miami. Tennis was the reason: his cousins, two of whom living in California, took him to see the famous academies – Rick Macci (the one from the Sisters Williams movie) and Nick Bollettieri.
- I liked it. As I had not had “my own” place I said: I am going to live where I feel best – he recollects.
Twenty-one years later, Miami is still his American base. He founded several companies there – construction and commercial ones – and started his family there. His wife is from Podgorica. They met in Budva, despite having grown in the same Podgorica neighbourhood – near “Maksim Gorki” School.
- She was about to complete her master studies in Rome at the time, with the second part of the studies to be frequented in Fort Lauderdale – literally next to my house. This is how everything started; we got married after a couple of years.
Today, they have three daughters born in Miami and two sons born in Podgorica – “the only two inhabitants of Zabjelo (neighbourhood in Podgorica) who got American passports immediately upon being born”, says Balša jokingly.
- I don’t want my children to grow up with playdate calendar play – he says.
Although his business in the States is doing well, family reasons were decisive for his decision to spend part of the year in Montenegro.
- I wanted for our children to have the childhood we used to have. In the States, they may not go alone to a grocery store until the age of 15, and social gatherings are possible only if scheduled nine days in advance. This is not a childhood.
Compromise is a solution: holidays in the States, school in Montenegro.
- I am not going to impose America or Montenegro on them; they may choose when they grow up.
Speaking about the “lost generation” which “does not belong neither here nor there”, he adds that he does not want his children to have such feeling:
- You are always a foreigner there, and over time you stop belonging here, too. The most difficult thing is not to belong anywhere.
One’s connection with one’s country starts in the childhood.
- I was born in Podgorica, opposite “Pobjeda” publishing house. My granny lived in this house in Srpska village and the only “danger” for children was the water well. I liked spending my time in this village.
As he was earning money in the States, he was purchasing land parcels and establishing his estate: about 70.000 square metres today, 3.000 olive trees, his own Pieralisi oil mill and a facility completing thus the entire process – from harvest to bottle.
- In olive growing, it is critical for fruit to be pressed immediately upon being harvested and properly stored in order not to oxidize. This is why we do the picking while the oil mill is in operation; after pressing, oil goes to the cellar. Everything is cold-pressed – explains our host.
From the brans straight to the mill
Yield has not been too big so far – the trees are of different age, with many of them only to reach full-yield age.
- The most important thing is for fruits to be sound, without being punctured by olive flies. We owe it to the climate, the airiness of the olive grove, adequate measures and cultivation. Other potential pests, like olive moth, are the duty of the poultry – which eliminates the need for preparations - says Baletić.
During the harvest, you could not tell the host from the workers and friends who came to help – without “playing the boss” but with rolled-up sleeves instead. To the extent that he even handled the pomace after pressing.
- Rub the pomace well between your palms, wait for it to dry – if there are oily traces on the skin, experts say that pressing parameters are not well adjusted – shows Balša. Here was no excess oil on the hands, and at the oil separator outlet the oil separated cleanly from the water. Fruity aroma filled the air before the oil was put in the cellar with visitors’ hall, tasting area and storage tanks.
There are cultivars as in a Mediterranean garden
Baletić planted the first oil trees in 2018 – 35 plants. The following year already, the number rose to 1.000 new plants of different varieties: Pendolino, Leccino, Istrian white olive, „žutica”... Today, at the estate there are about 3.000 trees, many of which only at the ripening stage.
- I was planting the best quality varieties with the highest level of polyphenols, acquired mainly in Croatia, and some of them in Italy. I deliberately planted the same varieties from both nurseries – to see the difference. It turned out that the Croatian plants showed better progress. Prud nursery from Croatia is, according to my opinion, the best in the Balkans - says Baletić.
He warns that Albanian plants are often imported to Montenegro without adequate control, thus importing diseases, too.
- One infected plant can destroy the whole olive grove – he says.
Hobby turned family business
Although he hired a person to look after the estate while he is in Miami, most of work Balša does himself: mowing, processing, planting.
- Americans say: keep your hobby from becoming your business. I have already breached it – my hobby has become a business, but the family one.
He keeps special memory of the first bottle: with his daughters (14 and 12 years of age at the time) he would fill bottles for five-six hours, putting labels on and enjoying the moment.
- It was a real family feeling.
Label design was made by his designer friends, voluntarily, “out of love”.
Neighbours’ solidarity particularly touched him: “When the harvest started, villagers came – I never called them. For two days, they were picking without remuneration, they just wanted to help. This proves it is not true that Montenegrins do not like other person’s success.”
Figures, quality, market
Last year, the Baletićs harvested more than 10 tons of olives and produced about 800 litres of oil. They came to the market on 4th September, and sold everything within forty days or so – to private buyers and restaurants.
- The most important thing is to have sound raw material. Then follows the speed of processing and storage in stainless steel vessels, sealed hermetically, protected from the source of light an oxygen. Our oil is extra virgin. Although the label reads 18 months, if stored properly it can last up to two years - says Balša.
Initial trepidation and nervousness of the harvest were soon replaced by routine, fatigue and pride.
- I had no dilemma as to whether olives would thrive in Srpska. The best confirmation were the trees planted by my father Branislav almost 30 years ago which still bear fruit in front of the house.
He adds that Montenegrin olive groves have been spreading beyond the coastal area for years:
- Zeta, Tuzi and Podgorica are ideal for olive growing – this is confirmed by the “Plantaže”, but also by numerous smaller and bigger olive groves of my colleague olive growers which are, luckily, enlarged from one year to another.
For Balša Baletić there is no “America or Montenegro” dilemma.
- Either can do with good organization. We have been living like that for the past four/five years already.
In the end, he remembers his father’s phrase – who was a civil engineer in the 1990-ies:
- Ever since World War Two I have been hearing “it will be better”… However, Balša adds:
- Montenegro is offering a peaceful, easy-going life. In America, one works 24 hours. Who wants to succeed there, should not go there as a labourer, but assume responsibility and organize people instead.
And at his estate, among the rows of olive trees, olive leaves, geese and children’s laughter, Balša Baletić confirms – one can have successful life both in Miami and in Zeta.
